RUDI VELIKONJA FOTO BLOG: avgust 2014

sobota, 23. avgust 2014

CORTINA D, AMPEZZO- ANGELO DIBONA SASSO PORDOI

Angelo Dibona 1879-1956

A. Dibona se je rodil v Cortini d'Ampezzo leta 1879. Od leta 1905 je bil gorski vodnik in smučarski inštruktor na območju Cortine D,A. Postal je znan po pionirskih vzponih v Dolomitih, kjer je v več kot 70ih vzponih(prvopristopnik) in s tem tako postal vodilni plezalec med elito v Dolomitih. Leta 1910 je naredil drugi vzpon na Christomannosturm v Trentino-Alto Adige južna tirolska 13 let po prvem vzponu. Dibonova pot je vključevala visoko steno 600 m s peto stopnjo težavnosti poti. V začetku 20. stoletja je opravil v številne vzpone na vrhove v drugih predelih Alp.

Eden od njegovih najpomembnejših prvih vzponov je bil v Sucre du Soreiller, granitni vrh v višini 3.130 m v francoskem masivu des Écrins, s katerim se je leta 1913 povzpel skupaj z Guido Mayererjem , s katerim se je nato povzpel še na veliko vrhov V Dolomitih in drugih predelih Alp. To gor so v njegovo čast preimenovali v Aiguillo Dibona. Dibona je razvil dolgoročno in trdno prijateljstvo z Mayerjem in njegovim bratom.

V 20-ih letih se je povzpel na angleški Lake Discrit, kjer se je prvič povzpel na škrbine na območju Honister Passa. Leta 1947 je Appalachian Mountain Club poročal, da je Dibona še vedno delal "spektakularne" skalne vzpone v starosti 65 let.

Angelo Dibona 1879-1956

A.Dibona was born in Cortina d'Ampezzo in 1879.From 1905 he was a mountain guide and a ski instructor in the Cortina area, and he became known for pioneering routes in the Dolomites,making more than 70 first ascents and becoming the leading climber during the heyday of climbing in the Dolomites. In 1910 he made the second ascent of the Christomannosturm in the Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol, 13 years after its first ascent. Dibona's route included a 600 m high rock face with fifth-degree passages. He made notable ascents of a number of peaks in other parts of the Alps in the early 1900s.

One of his most notable first ascents was of the Pain de Sucre du Soreiller, a 3,130 m granite peak in the French Massif des Écrins, which he climbed in 1913 with Guido Mayer (an Austrian client with whom he climbed many peaks in the Dolomites and other parts of the Alps). This mountain was renamed the Aiguille Dibona in his honor.Dibona developed a long-term and almost symbiotic friendship with Mayer and his brother.

In the 1920s he climbed in the English Lake District, making first ascents of gills in the Honister Pass area. In 1947 the Appalachian Mountain Club reported that Dibona was still doing "spectacular" rock climbs at the age of 65.